2/28/2021 – 1.1 hours
I marked the locations for the foam trailing edge ribs on the right top and bottom elevator skins and the right elevator rear spar. I found it was easier for me to translate all of the measurements into 1/16” measurements so I could easily go from rib to rib. If you're keeping track, the rib locations from the left edges of the preceding ribs are 9 7/16”, 8 1/16”, 8 9/16” 8 5/16”, 7 4/16” and 7 4/16”. I marked the left side of the rib by measuring 13/16” from the right side. I then used 150 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper to scuff the rib bonding surface of the rear spar. I needed to do that as the final step before priming the rear spar. Unfortunately, I neglected to complete the same steps on the left elevator rear spar before priming it. I'll have to sand off the primer in the left trailing edge rib locations and then sand those areas with the 150 grit sandpaper. Luckily there are only 2 locations on the left spar and skins vs 6 on the right. I also have not primed the skins yet, so I have time to get those areas sanded first.
[Ruler, Fine Line Sharpie, 150 Grit Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper, Acetone, Masking Tape]
3/3/2021 – 1.5 hours
3/4/2021 – 0.6 hours
3/5/2021 – 2.6 hours
Preparing the bonding surfaces for the foam ribs continued with scuffing the rib locations on the top and bottom right elevator skins. I masked the areas surrounding the rib locations with painters tape, and then sanded the exposed areas with 150 grit aluminum oxide sand paper. After sanding the rib locations, I cleco'd the trailing edge wedge in place as a template to tape off the area next to the trailing edge. I removed the wedge, and sanded the skin trailing edges for bonding with the wedge using the 3M VHB tape.
[150 Grit Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper, Acetone, Masking Tape]
3/7/2021 – 1.6 hours
I completed this session by priming the inside surfaces of the elevator skins. I was really happy with my updated process to scuff the ALclad surface with a maroon Scotch Brite pad and a solution of water and Dawn detergent, water rinse and dry, and degreaser spray and dry. The priming results are better with this method, and I don't have to wear latex gloves during the initial scrub and rinse. I made some “S” hooks out of old dry cleaner hangars, and hung the skins from a tailgate canopy frame. Painting vertically isn't ideal, but the rattle cans work better when they are upright.
[Maroon Scotch Brite Pad, Dawn Dish Detergent, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Dupli-Color Self-Etching Automotive Primer (Green – Rattle Can)]